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Charlie Carrol

 

 

North Shore Surfer Charlie Carroll

 

“I’m Addicted To Surfing For Life. Once You Get That Intense Rush, It’s The Ultimate High.”-Carroll

 

By Juicy

 

It’s not every day that one gets to live out their dream of doing what they love most. Some only imagine what life would be like to live in Oahu and surf the infamous North Shore in its winter prime. We already know about the greats Andy Irons, Kelly Slater and Sonny Garcia, but looming in our own backyards, a man named Charlie Carroll hailing from Makaha, has been surfing waves that only the best and bravest ride all his life.

 

Charlie’s love of surf began at the tender age of 6 with big dreams of eventually becoming a Triple Crown Champion. A Hawaiian past time experienced by most locally grown children, Charlie decided that he would take his love of surfing to the next level. Throughout his surfing career he has rode waves in El Salvador, Mexico, Spain, Samoa and even the infamous Teahupoo, Tahiti. This particular wave placed Charlie in one of the most precarious situations he has had in his surfing career. One of the first waves that he paddled into, he missed. He turned around to continue paddling when right behind the first wave was a monster wave that was immediately waiting for him. Not being in the right position, Charlie had to remove his leash and swim his hardest to make it out of the massive wave. For anyone who has rode or even seen footage of these giants, you know how colossal and daunting they can be. These waves claim people, and give you the ride of your life.

 

Besides this memorable and scary experience, Charlie shares another one of his fondest surf memories. In 1995 he was invited by Aunty Rell Sunn to surf the Berrett Surf Festival in France. As a young aspiring surfer, the opportunity to surf international waves was like a dream come true. Among the group of surfers with him were T.J. Barron, Fred Pattachia, Jason Shibata, Jamie O’Brien, and Melanie Bartels. In order to be invited on such a trip there was a 3-contest qualifier. However Aunty Rell saw something special in Charlie. She saw him surfing in Makaha and simply asked him if he would be interested in going to France. Aunty Rell is truly an inspiration to Charlie; he says, “her Aloha showed no boundaries.” Aunty Rell planned on making this trip every year with young up-and-coming surfers. However the surfing community was at a huge loss when cancer took her life. Still to this day, Charlie accredits her as an inspiration throughout his surfing career.

 

When Charlie is not surfing, you can mostly find him cruising with his 4-year old son Makai. Charlie is already passing on the love of water and surf to him by taking him to swimming lessons and even surfing with him on his back. In the off-season, you can also find Charlie MMA training as well as boxing, running, and other cardio. He likes to stay focused on one sport, to prevent injuries. All this hard work and training is so that he can stay in shape for the North Shore season.

 

Charlie truthfully enjoys surfing for the love of the sport. When he was asked if there was anything he wanted to share about surfing he says: “I’m addicted to surfing for life. Once you get that intense rush, it’s the ultimate high.”

 

Every year in the summer months, you can find Charlie waiting for the waves at Pipeline, and as soon as the seasons over, he is already thinking about the next one.  To keep himself occupied he takes a few surf trips in-between, but ultimately Charlie is thinking about home and the infamous Pipeline/Backdoor. Charlie is a true soul surfer; he dedicates and attributes his life to surf and those that inspire him. This humility and love of the sport is an inspiration. It reminds us that at the end of the day accolades and awards are just that.  They are non-tangible items that don’t mean anything unless you are happy doing what you love.

 

 

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